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If you cannot get brick cheese

What can I use instead of brick cheese for Detroit-style pizza?

Brick cheese is genuinely hard to buy outside the American Midwest. What Detroit pizza needs from it is high fat, low moisture and a willingness to fry against a hot pan — which several more available cheeses also do.

Generally accepted

What the original actually contributes

The caramelised cheese edge — the frico — that defines the style. That needs a cheese with enough fat to render and brown against the pan wall, low enough moisture not to steam, and a mild flavour that can be used in the quantity Detroit pizza uses without becoming overwhelming.

See the full cheese entry

Where availability is the problem

Made primarily in Wisconsin and distributed mainly within the United States. Rarely available in Europe, the UK, or most of the world, and not usually stocked even by good cheesemongers outside North America.

Options

  1. Low-moisture whole-milk mozzarella with about 20-25% mild cheddar

    Close

    Keeps what defines the style. There is a difference, and it is minor.

    Available in: Almost everywhere

    How to use it

    Cube rather than shred, and push the cubes hard against the pan walls so they melt down the sides. The cheddar supplies the fat and browning that mozzarella alone lacks.

    What changes

    Slightly sharper and more savoury than brick, which is notably mild. The frico edge itself forms properly, which is the part that matters most.

    What it does not change

    The structure of the bake or the pan behaviour. This is the standard workaround among Detroit-style makers outside the Midwest.

    Generally accepted
    • Detroit Free Press — coverage of Buddy's Pizza and Detroit-style originDetroit Free Press
    • Slice (pizza history and culture writing)Slice / First We Feast
  2. Young Monterey Jack, or a mild young Gouda

    Close

    Keeps what defines the style. There is a difference, and it is minor.

    Available in: United States; Gouda widely in Europe

    How to use it

    Use alone or blended with low-moisture mozzarella at roughly half and half.

    What changes

    Melts and browns readily with a mild flavour close to brick's. Young Gouda is the most available good option in Europe and browns particularly well.

    Generally accepted
    • Modernist PizzaThe Cooking Lab
  3. Mild white cheddar alone

    Workable, with trade-offs

    The result is recognisably the style, but you lose something specific — named below.

    Available in: UK, Ireland, Australia, North America

    How to use it

    Choose the mildest and youngest available; avoid anything matured or crumbly.

    What changes

    Browns and fries excellently but can split and release oil more than brick does, and a mature cheddar will dominate the pizza. Works, and needs a young cheese to work well.

    Generally accepted
    • Modernist PizzaThe Cooking Lab
  4. Fresh mozzarella

    Not recommended

    Commonly suggested, and it does not work here. The reason is given rather than the advice simply withheld.

    How to use it

    Do not use fresh mozzarella against the pan wall for a Detroit bake.

    What changes

    Its water content steams rather than fries, so no frico forms at all, and the released water makes the base soggy in a long pan bake. This is the single most common Detroit-style mistake.

    Strongly supported
    • Modernist PizzaThe Cooking Lab

Related

Evidence

Generally accepted
  • Detroit Free Press — coverage of Buddy's Pizza and Detroit-style originDetroit Free Press
  • Modernist PizzaThe Cooking Lab

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